Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Wednesday mini Tutorial: Contrast Paincha

Asalamu alaikum,

Adding a contrasting band to the bottom of a shalwar is a simple way to add detail without too much extra work. It can also help if you've made a mistake in the cutting and your shalwar is to short, or if your fabric is just a bit on the short side.

Step 1-Cut your leg as normal(for this tutorial I am using a simple shalwar as the example rather than a belt shalwar), but instead of adding three inches to the length, add only two.  Also cut two stripes of fabric, two inches wide, and the same length as the paincha(foot opening) of your shalwar.

Step 2- You will need two pieces of buckram(interfacing), one for each leg. They should be the same length as your contrast fabric stripes, and one inch wide. Place the interfacing in the middle of the fabric strip on the wrong side and fold over a half inch from each side towards the center.

Step 3- Unfold one of the edges of your contrast strip and line it up against the bottom of your foot opening, so that it is centered and the raw edges match. The right side of the contrast strip should face the wrong side of the shalwar.  Sew one line along the edge of the buckram and the opened fold line.

Step 4- Fold the contrast strip to the right side of the shalwar. You may want to pin it in place to keep the buckram from shifting around.

Step 5-Sew at least two lines, one at the top of the contrast fabric and one at the bottom, though I usually make more, at least five or six lines, around an eighth of an in apart.

Step 6- Complete the rest of your shalwar as normal.