Friday, December 7, 2012

A Line kameez- Part 3

Asalamu alaikum,

Click here for Part 1
Click here for Part 2

Here again for reference, the measurements list that you need for a basic kameez

-Measurement one is your chest measurement. Measure across the widest part of your bust, I add about three inches of ease because I like my suits on the loose side. Plus 2 inches for seams.
-Measurement two is what I call the "under bust" measurement. It is roughly 2-3 inches below your bust or about 4-5 inches above your belly button. I also add three inches of ease to this measurement.
-Measurement three is your hips, measure at the widest part. I only add two inches of ease here.
-Measurement four is your sleeve length, measure from the top of your shoulder(where the seam of your shirt sits) to the length that you want and add 2 inches.
-Measurement five is around the widest part of your upper arm. Here also I add three inches ease.
-Measurement six is your wrist, if you want half sleeves measure around the area you want your sleeves to end. If you go for long sleeves, you may want to measure around the widest part of your forearm, to make sure your sleeves are loose enough that you can push them up if you need to.
-Measurement seven is the kameez length. While standing measure from where your shoulder seam is to where you want your kameez to end, then add two inches. I like a finished length of 38", and I am 5'2" tall. The kameez is exactly at the middle of my knee cap. Current fashion in Karachi is longer kameezes, but for my daily wear I try to stick to regular length/fit.
-Measurement eight is your shoulder measurement, just measure from one shoulder seam to the other, and add 2 inches.

Now that the sleeves are attached, all that is left is the fitting measurements and the hemming of the side openings and bottom.

Step 1-Fold your kameez so that the wrong side faces out, and lay on a flat surface.

Step 2-Starting at the sleeve measure how wide you want your sleeve opening(there may already be a mark from when you cut your sleeve so you might have to do this to only one sleeve.)

Step 3- Mark the rest of the sleeve fitting.

Step 4- At the bottom of the arm scythe measure across the shirt and place on mark at the center. From that mark measure out towards the edge half of your chest measurement(measurement one above) and mark.

Step 5-From the chest marks on each side, measure down to where the underbust measurement will be, it should be a minimum of about 6.5 inches. If you are taller or have a larger bust, it should be a bit longer, I suggest measuring a shirt you already have that fits well.

Step 6- Repeat Step 4 for the underbust, then draw a line connecting the chest points and the underbust points(A-D, and B-E).

Step 7-Repeat Step 5, measuring down from the underbust to the hips, and mark.

Step 8-Connect the underbust points to the hip points(D-G, and E-F).

Step 10-Starting at the sleeves, sew along the sleeve fitting line, to the under arm. Making sure the needle is down in the fabric, pick up the foot and turn the kameez, put the foot back down and sew along the side fitting line to the hips. Stop and then turn and sew back up an inch or two to secure the stitches.
Your Kameez is almost done!

Step 11-If your kameez is unfinished at the bottom(mine had the blue fabric so there is no need to hem it), then now is the time to do that. Fold the bottom of the kameez up half an inch, then again half an inch and sew two lines, one on the top of the fold and another on the very bottom edge, as clost to the edge as you can without going off. Because the chauk(the side openings from the hips to hem of the kameez)  is not straight but cut on the bias it can be difficult to fold without getting wavy and odd looking. Place your kameez wrong side out on a flat surface for ironing.
Step 12-Fold one of the sides over one inch, and press well with the iron.
Step 13- Fold the raw edge under half an inch and pin along the length of the chauk, pressing well.
Step 14-The bottom corner is kind of tricky, if you just fold it over then the raw corner will stick out
Fold the bottom corner diagonally up towards the center.
So that when you finish folding the chauk the bottom lines up nicely with the hem. Repeat the same process for all four sides, pressing very well.

Step 15-On the outer edge of the fold, sew a line of stitches up one side, across the side seam(one inch) and then down the outer side of the other side. then sew another line along the very edge of the fabric, straight up, then turn and straight down the other side.
That is it and your A-Line kameez is done!


SephoraMAC said...

Very nice tutorial.
Thank you for sharing this!!
Looks beautiful.

Anonymous said...

Very Nice Job. Please Share Some More Tutorials Thanx. Jazak Allah

Unknown said...

Your tutorial is very nice. i stitched a nice salwar kameez with V neck and lace inserts and satin and lace at the hem and sleeves too.. Hope you will share a tutorial on how to sew a angarka style kameez..Thanx

Anonymous said...

Hello. Thank you for your tutorials. I'm an Australian, interested in the shalwah Kameez. I notice that the patterns don't have any darts. How does it fit the larger lady?

Aishah said...

Hi anonymous,

Since I usually sew very loosely fitted suits I don't usually add darts(I also don't have that much experience with them). I have occasionally added a pair of vertical darts each to the front and backs of kameezes for larger ladies that needed a bit of extra room in the top and bottom but didn't want it so loose around the middle. Basically it is two long vertical diamond shapes sewn from just outside the point of each bust to around the level of the hip measurement. then the back side darts are just added in roughly the same position.