Thursday, December 6, 2012

A Line Kameez- Part 2

Asalamu alaikum,

Click Here for Part 1

Here again for reference, the measurements list that you need for a basic kameez

-Measurement one is your chest measurement. Measure across the widest part of your bust, I add about three inches of ease because I like my suits on the loose side. Plus 2 inches for seams.
-Measurement two is what I call the "under bust" measurement. It is roughly 2-3 inches below your bust or about 4-5 inches above your belly button. I also add three inches of ease to this measurement.
-Measurement three is your hips, measure at the widest part. I only add two inches of ease here.
-Measurement four is your sleeve length, measure from the top of your shoulder(where the seam of your shirt sits) to the length that you want and add 2 inches.
-Measurement five is around the widest part of your upper arm. Here also I add three inches ease.
-Measurement six is your wrist, if you want half sleeves measure around the area you want your sleeves to end. If you go for long sleeves, you may want to measure around the widest part of your forearm, to make sure your sleeves are loose enough that you can push them up if you need to.
-Measurement seven is the kameez length. While standing measure from where your shoulder seam is to where you want your kameez to end, then add two inches. I like a finished length of 38", and I am 5'2" tall. The kameez is exactly at the middle of my knee cap. Current fashion in Karachi is longer kameezes, but for my daily wear I try to stick to regular length/fit.
-Measurement eight is your shoulder measurement, just measure from one shoulder seam to the other, and add 2 inches.

Step 1 Cutting the back neck opening- Measure the width of the shoulders on the front side of your kameez. Then measure on the back side of the kameez from the armhole edge(top of the picture below, above the inch tape)  inward toward the fold and mark.

Step 2- Measure down from the width mark, 3 inches and draw a line.

Step 3-Draw a line straight from the point you just marked to the fold, forming a square.

Step 4-From the point, measure out diagonally 1 inch and mark a point.

Step 5- Draw a curved shape from the top of the kameez, through the point and to the fold.

Step 6- Cut along the line.

Step 7-Prepare a bias strip about 12 inches long by one inch wide.

Step 8- Fold the strip in half and on the right side line the cut edges up along the edge of the neck hole opening. pin it all around the opening.

Step 9-Sew a line a bit less than a quarter of an inch from the edge. Cut any excess bias strip.

Step 10-Fold the strip over to the wrong side of the kameez, and sew a line along the very edge all around the neck.
The back neck opening is complete.

Step 11- Place the front and back of your kameez right sides together and sew a one inch seam across the tops of both shoulders.

Step 12- Unfold the kemeez and the right side should look something like this-

Step 13- Mark the center of your sleeve tops.

Step 14- With your kameez right side up, place the sleeve right side down on the center of the armhole. Line up the mark on the center of the sleeve top with the shoulder seam.

Step 15- Place a pin through the mark to hold it in place.

Step 16- Take one edge of your sleeve and match it up with the edge of your armhole. Pin in place.

Step 17- Do the same for the other side. You can add more pins, lining up the edge of the sleeve and armhole as best you can(it may not be exact, but it's ok).

Step 18-Sew a line of stitching along the edge of the sleeve, it some times helps to start the stitching at the center of the sleeve and sew to one edge and then go back to the center and sew from there to the other side. This is helpful if either the sleeve or armhole is a bit to big and they don't line up exactly.

1 comment:

Thinking said...

hmm...I really am glad to see you back...