Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Wednesday mini tutorial-Measuring a kameez

Asalamu alaikum,

Today's mini tutorial will be how to measure a kameez to get your own fitting. I find it useful to keep a small notebook with my own measurements written down to refer to any time I am sewing my own clothes, so that I don't have to take measurements each time. I also keep track of any measurements for people I regularly sew for-my sisters in law, my son, my niece and nephews, etc. You can use any ready made or tailored kameez that fits you properly. Flip the kameez inside out and lay it out on a flat surface.

Step 1 Length-Measure from the top of the shoulder seam to the damman(bottom of the shirt). Add two inches to your measurement, for the hem and shoulder seam allowance.

Step 2 Width-Measure at the widest point of your shirt. This will generally be the damman as many shirts are a couple of inches wider at this point than the hips, but not always, it depends on your body shape and kameez style. Take the measurement of the widest point and add 2 inches(for seam allowance or the folding over of the chauk/sides of the bottom of the shirt).

Step 3 Hips-Sometimes the hips will be slightly less wide than the damman. If it is not and you just want a straight chauk, then it just mark down the same width as the damman.

Step 4 Center back-This is the narrowest part of the kameez, about 6-8 inches under the bust line. Find the narrowest lines of stitching and mark down the number.

Step 5 Bust line-At the bottom of the curve of the arm holes measure the width, between the two lines of stitching. Add two inches for seam allowance.

Step 6 Side seams-You need to find out the length of distance between the bust line, center of back and hips. Basically how long the side seams should be. Between the bust line and the center back should be 6-8(or more) inches. If you have a larger bust then the distance will be more than if you have a smaller bust. Between the center back and the hips will also be around 6-8 inches, taller people, or people with longer torsos will need a longer measurement. You don't want the seam to be too short or it will not cover your waist, at the side openings your belly may peek out. I tend to go with a bit longer side seam and make the hips a bit loose to make sure that doesn't happen.

Step 7 The shoulders-Measure from the seam on one shoulder straight to the seam on the opposite shoulder. Generally this will be around 14". Add an inch to the measurement for the seam allowances.

Step 8 Sleeve length-Measure from the hem of the sleeve to the seam at the shoulders. Add 2 inches to the measurement for the hem and the shoulder seam allowance.

Step 9 Sleeve opening- On the bottom of the sleeve measure from the fold down to the seam line. The sleeve pictured above has a sort of bell shape that is wide at the opening then narrows a bit at the forearm, then widens again. An average straight sleeve would be 5-6 inches.

Step 10 Sleeve width-Find the widest point of the sleeve, just at the base of the curved part, and measure the width from the fold to the seam line.

Step 11 Arm Scythe/top of sleeve- Measure diagonally from the top to the sleeve where the fold is, to the bottom where the seam is. Add one inch for seam allowance.

Step 12-Neck hole depth-Measure from the top of the shoulder seam, to the bottom of the neck opening.

Step 13 Neck hole width. measure from one side of the neck opening to the other.

Measurements needed-
Width(widest point)
Center back
Distance between Bust/center back and Center back/hips
Shoulder width
Sleeve length
Sleeve opening width
Width of sleeve
Arm scythe/top of sleeve
Neck hole depth
Neck hole width


Adventurous Ammena said...

I wish our tailor would measure the neck opening.. I dunno if it was my scarf that made my head look smaller than in is but getting my kameez's on takes time and effort and is more like an art in itself. Ive even had to unintentionally rip a few to get it over my huge bulbous head (which it obviously isnt! back me up on this one sis!)

Aishah said...

You totally don't have a huge head!

I have had so many problems with tailors, necks too small, necks to big(As in-"is that my belly button you can see in the neck opening?"), horrible fit, far too tight, or tent like kameezes. I mean I like my suits loose, but not loose enough to fit another whole person inside!

I very rarely get anything tailored now, just so much easier to do it my self and be almost guaranteed to get a reasonable fit.

aayesha said...

nice tutorial,sister plz you make video helps to get understand better.