Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Pleated Belt Shalwar w/wide leg-Part 3

Asalamu alaikum,

After finishing up all the pleats we will now attach the belt and finish up our shalwar.

Step 1

With the right sides facing sew a half inch seam in the belt pieces of your shalwar.
Step 2

Fold over the seam allowance and sew a line of stitches 1/4 of an inch away to secure the seam allowance.

Step 3
With the right sides of the legs together, sew the center back seam of your shalwar.
It should look somewhat like this.
Step 4
Take one end of the belt and place it on the top of the leg pieces, the right side should be facing each other. The belt should be half an inch to the left of the center seam(this will be the center front seam allowance of the belt).
Pin the belt in place all around the legs, the center back seam of the belt and shalwar should be roughly at the same point.
What it looks like when you have finished pinning in place. The centerfront of the belt should over lap by half an inch for the center front seam.

Step 5
Sew from the center front seam of the legs around the shalwar and back to the front. Then sew up the center front seam of the belt, stopping 1.5 inches from the top(to leave a space for the drawstring.

Here is the belt attached to the legs.

Step 6
Now sew a line along the bottom of the belt to secure the seam allowance, it should be facing upwards.
Step 7
At the center front seam of the belt, fold the seam allowances away from the center by 1/4 inch and then fold the over 1/4 inch again. Sew a line down one side across the center seam and up the other side, this will be the opening in your drawstring casing.
Step 8
Starting at the openingyou made above, fold the top of the belt over by 1/2 an inch towards the wrong(inner) side.

Step 9
Fold it over by another inch to form the drawstring casing, do this all around coming back to the opening. Pin in place, and then sew a line of stitches all around on the bottom of the casing.

Step 10
On the wrong side of your shalwar, fold the leg in half and measure out along the hem from the fold 7", and mark, this is your foot opening.
Step 11
At the center crotch seam mark up 1/2 inch.

Step 12
Keeping the shalwar folded in half mark a lin from the foot opening to the center crotch seam, one inch away from the edge of your fabric. Do the same on the other leg. Sew the seam, starting at one foot, going up the leg to the center seam, and then down the other leg.

Now your shalwar is completed, give it a good pressing and it is ready for wear.

Front view of the finished shalwar

Back view of the pleated shalwar.

End of Part 3 for any questions please leave a comment.


Umm Mini said...

Salaam alaykum,

Masha'Allah you make it seem so easy.
I hope to try one of your shalwar tutorials soon. I have to find some time for it.

UmmIbrahim said...

Ma sha' Allah I love the tutorial. The triangle thing is definitely how the aunties cut them. I am so glad you mention what buckram is for the leg cuffs! I've been hunting in interfacing and finding nothing like what's sewn in my shalwars.

I just googled it and apparently buckram is over in the drapery section! Now I know where to hunt for it.

Quick question, what yardage are you using for one shalwar? When I was in PK they just gave me the amount and I never measured it. I can get a pair of pants out of 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 yards, but I'm thinking I can get by with less for a shalwar because the cutting is so efficient. It's like tetris!

Anyway, thanks so much for the tutorial. Looking forward to making it as soon as I hunt up some buckram. It's very clear and I will need no other instruction than this, ma sha' Allah! Maybe one day you can post your packing tips! That's another area where I need serious help. Ugh.

Aishah said...


Umm Mini, Thank you! If you do use the tutorial I would love to see how it turns out, if you don't mind posting a pic or two :-)

UmmIbrahim, Sometimes if I have no buckram on hand I just use a heavier interfacing, it works pretty well. When we go shopping they give us 2.5 meters for the kameez and 2.5 meters for the shalwar. The biggest difference is in the width, cotton or lawn suits are only 32 inches wide, but reshmie or malai(not a clue about what they are in English) is 45". I usually end up with a bit left over, which I use for piping on the kameez or some other type of design work.

That is partly why I use the wide leg shalwar with fancier suits, trying to cut this version from cotton is a bit more difficult because of the smaller width.

Anonymous said...


Masha allah great tutorials on how to make salwar kameez. I just have one request though. Will it be possible for you to post a picture of the finished garment at the beginning of the tutorial? Anyway, thank you so much for taking the time to post these tutorials.

Aishah said...

Salams anonymous,

That is a really good idea. I think I'll go do that right now, thank you for the suggestion!

Unknown said...

hi dear
kindly teach us to sew patiyala and semi patiyala salwar too
will be highly obiliged
i am a great fan of you sister