Wednesday, December 5, 2012

A-Line Kameez Part 1

Asalamu alaikum,

Finally got everything done for my A-line kameez tutorial! Sewing an A-line kameez is not the different from sewing a regular kameez, the main difference is in the cutting. So lets get started-

Here again for reference, the measurements list that you need for a basic kameez

-Measurement one is your chest measurement. Measure across the widest part of your bust, I add about three inches of ease because I like my suits on the loose side. Plus 2 inches for seams.
-Measurement two is what I call the "under bust" measurement. It is roughly 2-3 inches below your bust or about 4-5 inches above your belly button. I also add three inches of ease to this measurement.
-Measurement three is your hips, measure at the widest part. I only add two inches of ease here.
-Measurement four is your sleeve length, measure from the top of your shoulder(where the seam of your shirt sits) to the length that you want and add 2 inches.
-Measurement five is around the widest part of your upper arm. Here also I add three inches ease.
-Measurement six is your wrist, if you want half sleeves measure around the area you want your sleeves to end. If you go for long sleeves, you may want to measure around the widest part of your forearm, to make sure your sleeves are loose enough that you can push them up if you need to.
-Measurement seven is the kameez length. While standing measure from where your shoulder seam is to where you want your kameez to end, then add two inches. I like a finished length of 38", and I am 5'2" tall. The kameez is exactly at the middle of my knee cap. Current fashion in Karachi is longer kameezes, but for my daily wear I try to stick to regular length/fit.
-Measurement eight is your shoulder measurement, just measure from one shoulder seam to the other, and add 2 inches.


Step 1-Fold your fabric with wrong sides facing, first in half length wise then width wise(selvedge to selvedge. You will have one side with all four corners, that will be the bottom hem side of your kameez. My fabric has a contrasting band at the hem.

Step 2- Measure for the length of your kameez, measurement 7(I have flipped my cloth after taking the first pic, for a now unknown reason). My desired fitting length was 39 inches, so I measured forty. My contrasting hem is already finished, so I only needed an extra inch for the shoulder seam, you will need to add two inches to your desired fitting length. Mark straight across the fabric, and cut on the line.
Step 3 Measure out from the fold on the top side, this is your shoulders, it will be half of measurement 8(mine is 7.5 inches)and mark.


Step 4 From this mark, measure straight down 8 inches and mark. Draw a line from the first mark to the second.


Step 5 Measure out from the fold, parallel to the top of the kameez, and mark C at one quarter of the total chest measurement (Measurement 1 )

Step 6   Now measure out from the corner of the rectangle you just drew, and mark at 1 1/2", Mark "D"


Step 7 Now draw a curved line from the top mark A, down through the diagonal mark at D, and end at the bottom right corner C.


Step 8-Then measure down from that line 7 1/2"(if you have a larger chest, like a D cup or more you may want to add an inch or two). This is the distance between measurements 1 and 2 above.

 Step 9 From there measure out from the fold for the the underbust measurement and mark at G for fitting(one quarter of measurement 2) and F, one inch away, for the cutting/seam allowance.

Step 10 Connect point C and F, and mark another line one inch in from C to G




Step 11 From point F measure diagonally to the bottom hem of the kameez, one inch up from the bottom and mark a line.


Step 12 Cut along the curve of the arm scythe, and along the cutting line all the way down to the hem.




Step 13 I am using a contrasting reverse neck facing for this kameez, so you can see my tutorial here for a more detailed explanation Now for the neck you will need a piece of light weight fusible interfacing. It needs to be at least 8 inches wide by 7 inches tall. Fold it in half, and draw the shape you want for your neck opening, keeping the piece one inch wide. If you like a larger neck opening then you can use a larger piece of interfacing, but the neck piece should always be 1 inch wide. Take your interfacing and iron it to the wrong side of an extra piece of cloth that is half an inch larger on all sides except the top.


Take one of your shirt pieces, and place it wrong side up on a flat surface. Take the interfacing that you just sewed and place it interfacing(wrong) side up. It is very important that this part be exactly centered between the shoulders. You may want to pin it, so that it doesn't move while sewing otherwise your neck opening will be crooked.

Step 14-Sew a line of stitching along the inner most edge of the interfacing.


Step 15-Leaving a quarter of an inch seam, cut out the two center pieces of fabric(kameez front and neck facing)


Step 16- Fold the facing to the Right side of the shirt, and sew one line of stitching at the very edge of the neck opening.



Step 17- Fold the outer edges of the facing under, and sew a line of stitching along the outer most edge.


Step 18-For the sleeves cut two rectangles, the width should be the number you got for measurement 5(including ease) plus an additional two inches for seams. The length should be the number you got from measurement 4 plus two inches. My sleeve has a finished edge so I only added one inch. If the original cloth you got for the kameez was only 32" by 96", you may need to join two pieces together to make each of you sleeves wide enough. If you want short sleeves this should not be a problem.

Place the two sleeves with right sides facing each other and fold in half. In the picture below the fold is on the bottom and there are four raw edges at the top. From the bottom right corner, measure a diagonal line(from point A to point B) across to the raw edges that is nine inches long and mark.

Step 19-Then draw a curved line from the fold side to the raw edges as shown below.

Step 20-Cut along the line.

Step 21- Draw the fitting line for your sleeve. For a straight sleeve you will use measurement 6, and add one inch for the seams. Measure out from the fold and mark, draw a line connecting the arm fitting measurement and the cuff measurement. The second line is for cutting.

I am using a bell shaped sleeve, so my measurement 6 is where the blue cuff starts, then my sleeve flairs back out.

Step 22-Cut along the outer line.


8 comments:

♥●• İzdihër •●♥ said...

lovely!

♥●• İzdihër •●♥ said...

amazing!

Seemi Afzal said...

AOA
I Started Reading Ur Blog Yesterday N From Then I Hav Read All Of Ur Blogs They R Just Adorable N Great.i Really Appreciate Ur Efforts Towards Islam N Living Positvely In Such Terrific Conditions In Karachi.Im sure U Have Build A palace In Jannah By Ur Deeds N hardworking In living with Ur Husbends Family.you Gave Me Inspiration..keep On Writting Sister..take Care

Shilpa Balakrishnan said...

you are amazing, thanks you for this, appreciate your hardwork that you put. So much easy for mr to learn. thanks a ton!!!

nosheen andlib said...

AOA kindly guide me for the cutting of a palazzo trousers
thanks

Anonymous said...

assalamualaikum . i just wanna say thaank uuuuuuuuuuuuu !

Anonymous said...

Plz share loops making for stylish neckline

Moona Adamje said...

By chance looking for sewing tutorials, I came across your blog and I must say I am totally fascinated. The very fact that you are American and that you converted to Islam and adopted the Eastern culture and so very beautifully immersed into. Love the watermelon recipe and your sewing tutorials. I am looking for inspiration to really sew but it is hard but am taking baby steps to learn slowly. Noted that certain segments of society are posting negative comments. Please ignore them as I am sure there are many like me who enjoy and truly find you inspiring. You are in my favourite folder. Munira from Canada