Today's mini tutorial will be on slim sleeves, open at the cuff with snaps. These are very helpful if the cloth for the sleeves is on the slim side, or if you like slim sleeves but always have trouble pushing the sleeves up for hand/dish washing/wudhu, or if you are just hot.
Step 1-Measure from the top/fold side of the sleeve opening down towards the bottom and mark 5". You may use a smaller or larger measurement if you like. It should be fairly snug but not too snug.
Step 2-Measure in from the edge of the under arm/bust seam, one inch and mark.
Step 3-Draw a straight line connecting the two points.
Step 4-About 3-4 inches away from the sleeve opening, place a mark. This is the end of the under arm seam. At this point you would sew from this mark down to the under arm, and down the side of the kameez in the normal fashion. See my simple kameez tutorial part two, steps seven through ten.
Step 5-Once your under arm and side seams are complete, go back to the sleeve opening and fold the edge of the seam allowance towards the wrong side by half an inch, then fold it again another half inch. Pin in place, being careful not to pin it to the opposite side of the sleeve. Do the same for the other side seam allowance.
Step 6-Sewing on the very edge of the fold, start at one side of the sleeve, sew down, then across the under arm seam, and up the other side, similar to how you would sew the chauk(open part of the bottom of a kameez, below the hips).
Here is how the sleeve will look after sewing the folds down. You could leave it as is, and just have an open sleeve, but I always attach snaps.
Step 7-Select your snaps. I usually use the sew on kind as that is more easily available here. If you have the prong types that have the press/hammer you could also use that.
Here are the sew on snaps.
Step 8-Sew one side of the snap to one side of the sleeve on the wrong side of the fabric.
Step 9-Sew the other side of the snap to the same place on the opposite side of the sleeve, still on the wrong side of the fabric.
Complete you second sleeve in the same manner, and then the rest of your kameez.