Sunday, June 5, 2011

Pleated Belt Shalwarw/wide leg-Part 1

Asalamu alaikum,

Front and back view of the finished belt shalwar.

Your first step is to find your measurements. This is the same as the measurements for the simple shalwar. For this shalwar it is best to use fabric that is 45 inches wide, you will need a piece that is at least 2.5 yards. If you are unsure of having enough, get a bit extra. It is possible to make this style of wide leg shalwar with a narrower fabric, but you have to be very careful in the cutting.

Step 1-Measuring

To start you will need to figure out some measurements, if you have a shalwar that fits you then you can measure that. If you do not have a shalwar, then you need to do a bit of math. Measure from where you want your waist band to fall to just below your ankle. Take that number and subtract 7 for the belt, the remainder is your desired leg length. To the belt you need to add 2 inches of height, 1.5 for the drawstring casing and .5 for the seam attaching it to the legs, so the total height of the cutting for the belt is 9 inches. You also need to add 2 inches to your desired leg length, .5 for the seam and 1.5 inches for the hem at the foot. So for example if your measurement for the total height of your shalwar was 38, that would be a belt of 7 inches(9 cutting) and a leg of 31(33 cutting). For the width of the belt you measure your hips at their widest and then add at least 6 inches for ease (although you can add more if you like), plus 1 inch for seams.

Step 2
Fold your cloth in half the long way, place the cut side to your left and the fold side to your right. You are first going to cut the main leg piece. Along the selvage closest to you measure from the left corner down the total length of your leg (for the 38" shalwar, that would be 33"). the width of the rectangle should be 14", if you prefer a wider foot opening you can make it slightly wider.

Step 3
The width of the next piece should be at least 20", measure up from the main leg piece along the cut side. From there measure down 9", this is the crotch seam measurement.

Step 4
Make one diagonal line connecting the crotch seam to the bottom of the main leg piece.

Step 5
From the bottom of the leg piece measure out 9".

Step 6
Measure the same width as for Step 3 (in my example it is 20").

This is what your pieces should look like-

Step 7
Cut along all the lines, and separate you pieces, you should have two main leg pieces, and four outer leg pieces(two left facing and two right facing).

Step 8
From the extra pieces, cut two rectangles for the belt. They should be 9" tall by half the width you calculated in Step 1.

Step 9
Arrange your leg pieces as above, and sew together with right sides facing.

End of part one, if you have any questions please leave a comment and let me know.


nafisat_hizan said...

wa alaikum assalam dear Aishah. Everything is explained very easy and understandable way. Thank you!!! Nafisa

Huda said...

how to measure crotch??

Aishah said...

Asalamu alaikum,

@Huda, you don't have to measure the crotch, as it is so loose that it is the same for almost every size. You would only need to change the given measurements for very large sizes.