Thursday, June 10, 2010

Simple Kameez Tutorial part two

Asalam Alaikum,
Now we will start part two of the kameez tutorial.

Here again for reference, the measurements list that you need.

-Measurement one is your chest measurement. Measure across the widest part of your bust, I add about three inches of ease because I like my suits on the loose side.
-Measurement two is what I call the "under bust" measurement. It is roughly 2-3 inches below your bust or about 4-5 inches above your belly button. I also add three inches of ease to this measurement.
-Measurement three is your hips, measure at the widest part. I only add two inches of ease here.
-Measurement four is your sleeve length, measure from the top of your shoulder(where the seam of your shirt sits) to the length that you want and add 3 inches.
-Measurement five is around the widest part of your upper arm. Here also I add three inches ease.
-Measurement six is your wrist, if you want half sleeves measure around the area you want your sleeves to end. If you go for long sleeves, you may want to measure around the widest part of your forearm, to make sure your sleeves are loose enough that you can push them up if you need to.
-Measurement seven is the kameez length. While standing measure from where your shoulder seam is to where you want your kameez to end, then add three inches. I like a finished length of 38", and I am 5'2" tall. The kameez is exactly at the middle of my knee cap. Current fashion in Karachi is longer kameezes, but for my daily wear I try to stick to regular length/fit.
-Measurement eight is your shoulder measurement, just measure from one shoulder seam to the other, and add 2 inches.

Step one is to cut the sleeves, you will need two rectangles. The width should be the number you got for measurement 5(including ease)plus an additional 2 inches for seams. The length should be the number you got from measurement 4 plus three inches. If the original cloth you got for the kameez was only 32" by 96", you may need to join two pieces together to make each of you sleeves wide enough. If you want short sleeves this should not be a problem.

Step two, place the two sleeves with right sides facing each other and fold in half. In the picture below the fold is on the bottom and there are four raw edges at the top. From the bottom left corner, measure a diagonal line across to the raw edges that is nine inches long and mark. Then draw a curved line from the fold side to the raw edges as shown below.

Then cut along the line.

Step three is to hem the sleeves, fold the raw edges to the wrong side half an inch and then fold it over another half an inch. Sew one line of stitches on the fold, and another on the very edge of the sleeve.


Step four, mark the center of the sleeve on the shoulder side. You can kind of see in this picture and the one above where I made a join to widen the sleeves. With my regular suits the cloth comes in a set length, so I end up with joins on almost all of my sleeves, because I don't wear short sleeves. For fancier suits the cloth comes in larger sizes, and I sometimes get a little extra just in case.


Step five, place your kameez front and back together with right sides facing each other. sew a one inch seam across the top of the shoulders, taking care to make sure the neck openings match up.


Step six, place your shirt piece on a flat surface with the right side facing up. Then take one of your sleeves, and place it in the sleeve opening, matching the mark you made with the shoulder seam. Put a pin throught the sleeve and the shoulder seam to hold it in place. Now hold one corner of the sleeve up to the corner of the sleeve opening and pin, do the same for the other corner. Place pins along the sleeve to hold it in place. If your sleeve edges and the edges of the opening don't match up exactly it is not a big deal. I find the easiest way to make sure the sleeves end up even is to start sewing at the shoulder seam and sew to one edge. Then I start again at the shoulder seam and sew to the other edge. Do this for both sleeves.

Turn the shirt to the right side and check the sleeves to make sure there are no weird bumps or anything. If it looks a bit strange, turn back to the wrong side and sew along the seam again, straightening out any strange looking sections. If you have some experience sewing clothes it may be a bit easier to get it right the first time. If you don't have a lot of experience, after the first or second try it gets easier to figure it out.

Step seven, fold the shirt in half with right sides facing in, and mark your sleeve and side seams. Starting at the end of your sleeve using measurement six, measure down from the fold, and mark. I like very wide loose sleeves so I used 6 inches. Repeat for second sleeve.

Step eight, Make one mark at the armpit of the shirt, one inch in from the edge, and then connect that mark with the mark at the wrist. Repeat for second sleeve.


Step nine, you will now mark out your side seams. You should have one line already marked from when you cut the kameez. Mark the opposite side in the same way. Measure across the chest, underbust and hips to make sure that the measurements match your own measurements.



Step ten-Your lines should look like the photo below, starting at the end of your sleeves, sew straight to the armpit, with the needle still down lift the presser foot and turn the cloth. Continue to sew along your line until you hit the mark for the hip, stop and sew backwards over about 1 inch to secure the end. At this point you should try on your kameez to make sure the fit is correct. If you find it too loose or too tight in any area re-sew the seam until it fits the way you want.


Step eleven, Lay your kameez down flat, there should be one inch of cloth on the outside of the hip. From the hip mark to the bottom of the kameez, fold the raw edge in half an inch, and then another half an inch, pin every couple of inches. Be careful not to pin the front to the back. Repeat this folding and pinning on the remaining three edges.


Step twelve- Start on the bottom of the kameez, sew one line on the very edge of the fold, straight up, turn 90 degrees, sew over one inch, again turn 90 degrees and sew straight down to the bottom of the other side. sew a second line on the inner edge straight up one side, and then down the second side. Repeat for the other side of the kameez.



Step thirteen- On the front side fold up the bottom of the kameez half an inch and another half an inch, and sew two lines. One on the fold side and one on the edge of the hem. Repeat for the back of the kameez.

Your kameez is now finished.



If you have any problems or suggestions please leave a comment.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Simple Kameez Tutorial part one

Asalam Alaikum,
For your kameez, you will need a piece of cloth that is at least 32" by 96". If you like short sleeves then 32" by 96" should be enough. If you want longer sleeves there are different options- first you could join two pieces together to make the sleeve pieces the right size, or you could just get a larger piece of cloth.

The first step is to get the measurements needed for your suit. To make this easier you may want to measure a shirt you already own(it doesn't have to be a kameez any non-stretchy shirt will work), but it is not absolutely necessary. Measuring a shirt that you already have makes it a bit easier because then you don't have to figure out how much ease you need.


-Measurement one is your chest measurement. Measure across the widest part of your bust, I add about three inches of ease because I like my suits on the loose side.
-Measurement two is what I call the "under bust" measurement. It is roughly 2-3 inches below your bust or about 4-5 inches above your belly button. I also add three inches of ease to this measurement.
-Measurement three is your hips, measure at the widest part. I only add two inches of ease here.
-Measurement four is your sleeve length, measure from the top of your shoulder(where the seam of your shirt sits) to the length that you want and add 3 inches.
-Measurement five is around the widest part of your upper arm. Here also I add three inches ease.
-Measurement six is your wrist, if you want half sleeves measure around the area you want your sleeves to end. If you go for long sleeves, you may want to measure around the widest part of your forearm, to make sure your sleeves are loose enough that you can push them up if you need to.
-Measurement seven is the kameez length. While standing measure from where your shoulder seam is to where you want your kameez to end, then add three inches. I like a finished length of 38", and I am 5'2" tall. The kameez is exactly at the middle of my knee cap. Current fashion in Karachi is longer kameezes, but for my daily wear I try to stick to regular length/fit.
-Measurement eight is your shoulder measurement, just measure from one shoulder seam to the other, and add 2 inches.


Step two is to cut two rectangles-
Fold your cloth in half length wise, with right sides together. Take you widest measurement(including ease, probably hips or chest), then add an additional two inches for seams. Measure across this amount, and then measure down your length plus three inches. Cut along these lines, and then fold the two rectangles in half length wise again so that on one side is a fold and the other is four edges.
Step three starts on the upper left corner, measure out half of what you got in measurement eight. My shoulder measurement is 12, then I add two, to get 14 so I measure out from the fold 7 inches and mark. From this mark, measure straight down 8 inches and mark. Draw a line from the first mark to the second, and then straight across to the edge. Now measure out from the corner of the rectangle you just drew, and mark at 1 1/2". Now draw a curved line from the top mark, down through the diagonal mark, and end at the bottom right corner.
Step four, from the fold side measure out and mark half of your chest measurement(including ease), and mark. Then measure down from that line 7 1/2"(if you have a larger chest, like a D cup or more you may want to add an inch or two), from there measure out the underbust measurement(including ease) and mark. Again measure down 7 1/2" and from there measure out by your hip measurement. It is important to make sure that there is one inch on the outside edge from the hip mark down to the bottom, if your hip was not you largest measurement you may have to trim this area. Now draw a line connecting the bust measurement to the underbust to the hip. Then draw another line parallel to that one, one inch out towards the edge.

Here is a pic of my suit with chalk marks, before cutting.

Step five starting at the top, cut along the curved line first, then cut along the outer line from bust to hip.

Step six -Now for the neck you will need a piece of light weight fusible interfacing. It needs to be at least 8 inches wide by 7 inches tall. Fold it in half, and draw the shape you want for your neck opening, keeping the piece one inch wide. If you like a larger neck opening then you can use a larger piece of interfacing, but the neck piece should always be 1 inch wide.

Step seven- Take your interfacing and iron it to the wrong side of an extra piece of cloth that is half an inch larger on all sides except the top.
Step eight- Fold the edges over and sew a line one quarter of an inch from the edge.
Step nine-Take one of your shirt pieces, and place it right side up on a flat surface. take the interfacing that you just sewed and place it interfacing(wrong) side up. So the right sides are facing each other. It is very important that this part be exactly centered between the shoulders. You may want to pin it, so that it doesn't move while sewing otherwise your neck opening will be crooked.
Step 10-Sew a line around the inside of the neck, just on the very edge of the interfacing. Cut out the middle section leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Step 11-turn the interfacing to the wrong side of the shirt, and then sew two lines, one on the very edge, and one half an inch out. This is the simplest way to do the neck, but a more authentic way is after folding the interfacing in, use the blind hem technique on the the very edge of the interfacing. I found a really good tutorial for this technique here.
Step twelve-For the back neck opening, fold the shirt back in half with the right sides facing. Measure out from the fold 3 inches, and down 2 1/2". measure out diagonally from the corner 1 inch and mark. Now draw a curved linefrom the fold through the diagonal mark, and up to the top. Cut along this line.
Step thirteen-Take a long strip of extra cloth that is 1 1/2 inches wide, and fold in halfw

Pin the strip to the raw edge of the neck opening with the fold facing away from the raw edge. Cut away the extra length of the stripe. Sew a 1/4 inch seam.
Step fourteen-Fold the strip you just sewed to the inside(wrong) side of the shirt piece, and sew along the edge of the strip. Or you could use the blind hem technique.

This is the end of part one of the kameez tutorial. I hope to post part two soon. ETA-Link to Part Two

If anyone spots any errors or you find any part a bit confusing comment to let me know.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Simple Shalwar Tutorial

Asalam Alaikum,
Your shalwar cloth should be at least 32" by 96". If it is wider that is good, but the minimum is 32".

Step 1-
Fold the cloth in half length wise, then width wise. Arrange so that the selvages are facing towards you with the with the four corners on your left side.

Step 2-On the fold side measure down your desired length(to find your length measure from your waist to just below the bone on your ankle) plus three inches, and mark. Measure on the selvage side also, then mark and cut straight across.

Step 3-On the side that you just cut measure from the fold side down seven inches and mark. This is the bottom of the shalwar, it must be wide enough to put your foot through with a bit of extra space. Measure around the ball of your foot and if you think you need the leg a bit wider you can add a couple inches, but seven(fourteen total) works for most.

Step 4-On the selvage side mark at the half way point.

Step 5-Draw a diagonal line connecting the two points, and cut along the line.


Step 6-With the right sides facing each other, match up the selvages of the four triangles to the four selvages of the main shalwar pieces, and sew a half inch seam.

This is the approximate position of all the pieces.
Step 7-On the triangular piece that you just attached to the main leg, you will cut off the outer point because this is for the crotch seam. Measure straight down from the top, you want the edge to be 17 inches, draw a line and cut the excess. You can sort of see in this picture where my chalk mark is, it should be several inches out from the seam that you sewed in the last step. You should do this for all four sides.

Step 8-Now you will sew the crotch seams. Place the two pieces together with right sides facing. First sew one seam from the top straight down one side(green line in the diagram). On the second side(the seam should be one inch wide) start one and a half inches down from the top and sew straight down.

Step 9- On the seam that you just sewed, press the edges away from the seam. Fold the raw edges under half an inch, and sew as in the picture below.

Step 10-Now sew the space for the drawstring. Starting at the opening you made in step 9, fold the top down half an inch, and then fold again one more inch and sew along the bottom of the fold. Sew all the way around the top, until you come back to the opening, and sew over one inch of the first stitches to secure the opening.
Step 11-For the bottom of the feet, you will need a medium weight interfacing, you could use a fusible if you want, but we don't. Cut two stripes that are one inch by 18 inches.
Step 12-On the wrong side of the cloth place one piece of interfacing, and fold over one half inch of the cloth and sew one line to secure the interfacing.

Step13-Fold the interfacing and cloth up on the wrong side another inch, and sew six to eight straight lines along the area where the interfacing is.

You can kind of see the lines in this photo-

When you have finished cut the extra interfacing even with the cloth.

Step 14- Now you will sew the inside leg seams.

With the wrong sides facing measure on both of the foot openings out from the fold seven inches and mark.
At the crotch seam measure up half and inch and mark


Mark a straight line to connect the mark at the crotch seam and each of the marks on the foot. Sew from one of the foot openings straight along the line to the crotch seam, turn and sew four inches down on the second side. Turn and sew back along the line to 4 inches past the crotch seam over the first line of stitching and then turn one last time, sew up to the crotch and completely down the second side to the bottom of the foot. This back and forth may seem a bit much, but it is always good to make this seam a bit strong just in case.
And that is it, the finished simple shalwar should look something like this(ignore the white lines, my cloth had a misprint that I didn't notice when I bought it).



If anyone has any suggestions to improve this tutorial or if you found it confusing make a comment and let me know.